THE SPLICED ROD. 17 



should, however, be turned frequently, to prevent their 

 warping or drying irregularly. In the course of a year, or 

 less, if the place is warm and dry, the pieces may be matched 

 together in proportionate sizes. From the top of the 

 thinnest cut eight or ten inches, and bind on a taper piece 

 of whalebone with waxed thread such as is used by saddlers 

 is the best for the purpose. The whalebone may be cut 

 with a long slant, to suit a corresponding slant in the hazel, 

 or slightly split and made to overlap a tapering point. The 

 stock and middle piece, and top, may be joined together by 

 a long splice, or a fished joint. If intended to remain to- 

 gether for the season, some saddler's wax may be rubbed 

 between the joints, and then neatly bound with strong 

 waxed thread. Every angler should learn to bind a splice 

 with neatness and adroitness, in case of accident to his rod 

 when in a remote district. The waxed silk or cord should 

 be neatly and closely laid together, and the ends should be 

 securely fastened. To fasten off, lay the fore-finger of your 

 left hand over the bind, and with your right make four turns 

 of the thread over it, then pass the end of your thread be- 

 tween the under side of your finger and the rod, and draw 

 your finger away, draw taut each of the four threads 

 separately, and when firm and tight, draw the end close, 

 and you have a neatly and firmly tied splice. When, how- 

 ever, the rod is to be taken asunder day by day, a closely 

 stitched leather band is welted and drawn tightly over the 

 splice, and then whipped with twine, and as the leather 

 dries it becomes tight and firm. This forms a light, 

 useful rod. A piece of lancewood may be cheaply and 

 judiciously substituted for the spliced top for bottom-fish- 

 ing, and the butt may be made of yellow pine. 



An exquisite rod for fly-fishing may be made in the 



B 



