PRELIMINARIES 9 



laughter at a Hindustani song to which I 

 treated them, with topical verses to suit the 

 occasion. 



We then repaired to our several fires, 

 which were many, and on a most generous 

 scale, for wood there was in plenty ; none 

 of your English fires with split logs, cut up 

 into lengths, but regular bonfires, with the 

 trunk of a fallen tree for a back, and whole 

 trees dragged up, branches and all, their 

 butts crossing one another over a heap of 

 red embers. Presently the trees forming 

 the " back " of the blaze caught fire and 

 glowed with a red heat, brightening to 

 almost white, as the night breeze fanned 

 the crackling embers. Such was the sight 

 that I remember, as, wrapped up in my 

 blankets I lay down to sleep, with my feet 

 towards my own special fire, stretched on 

 a luxurious couch of fine fir branches, which, 

 broken off the trees, formed a green but 

 perfectly dry layer between me and the 

 snow below. 



At two a.m. my " bearer," or body servant, 



