AN OFF-DAY 53 



ibex was progressing, and a look in at the 

 coolies, who were having a big dinner 

 which I had stood them in honour of my 

 first ibex, brought seven o'clock round, and 

 my dinner also ; after which I went over to 

 Lassoo's hut for a pipe and a chat. There 

 I found a big congregation of coolies and 

 shikaris having their evening smoke round 

 the fire. I was escorted to the place of 

 honour on Lassoo's right ; and a very com- 

 fortable seat it was, on a couple of folded 

 blankets with the wall for a " back." 

 Everybody was in great feather after a real 

 heavy meal ; and after I had issued some 

 " Pioneer " tobacco for the hookahs, each 

 and all were in a mood for anything. 

 As we sat and talked the hookah went its 

 round, giving out its friendly bubbling 

 sound as one man after another had his 

 three or four pulls at it, and passed it on ; 

 while the fire threw a bright red light 

 through the room, now and again lighting 

 up the faces of the hillmen more distinctly 

 as it blazed up under the compulsion of a 



