4 IDLE DAYS IN PATAGONIA 



shore was visible in the intense darkness, and to 

 m6 it seemed that we were still moving swiftly on. 



There was no longer any wind, and through the 

 now fast-breaking clouds ahead of us appeared 

 the first welcome signs of dawn. By degrees the 

 darkness grew less intense ; only just ahead of us 

 there still remained something black and un- 

 changeable a portion, as it were, of that pitchy 

 gloom that a short time before had made sea and 

 air appear one and indistinguishable; but as the 

 light increased it changed not, and at last it was 

 seen to be a range of low hills or dunes of sand 

 scarcely a stone's throw from the ship's bows. 

 It was true enough that we were stuck fast in the 

 sand; and although this was a safer bed for the 

 steamer than the jagged rocks, the position was 

 still a perilous one, and I at once determined to 

 land. Three other passengers resolved to bear me 

 company; and as the tide had now gone out, a^d 

 the water at the bows was barely waist deep, we 

 were lowered by means of ropes into the sea, and 

 quickly waded to the shore. 



We were not long in scrambling up the dunes 

 to get a sight of the country beyond. At last, Pat- 

 agonia! How often had I pictured in imagina- 

 tion, wishing with an intense longing to visit this 

 solitary wilderness, resting far off in its primitive 

 and desolate peace, untouched by man, remote 

 from civilization! There it lay full in sight be- 

 fore me the unmarred desert that wakes strange 

 feelings in us; the ancient habitation of giants, 



