ON TO THE HILLS. 3 



Alongside the broken waters we drove for some 

 distance, crossed an obtuse-angled ancient bridge, of 

 the General Wade pattern, and associated in one's 

 mind with lawless Celts and ruthless troopers. Then 

 a sharp turn to the right, and we pulled up at the 

 Eraser's Arms Inn. 



The landlord had a letter from Major Duncan, 

 which said he hardly expected us till next day. So we 

 disembarked to have some provision and look about. 



John Eraser is a good specimen of the Highland 

 innkeeper (not hotel-keeper, save the mark !). John 

 has a nice grating-farm at a " canny rent," he says ; 

 he owns store of West Highland cattle and black- 

 faced sheep, and moreover has a "sonsie wife and 

 bonnie bairns;" so small thanks to him if he do not 

 grumble, like most of his lowland brethren, but 

 works, fishes, bargains, and jokes, in an easy-going 

 way, pleasant to witness. 



The horses were taken round to the stables, and 

 we were greeted by Mrs. Eraser's smiling face. 



" Glad to see you again, Mrs. Eraser," I said ; 

 " how are the bairns ? " 



" All weel and stout, thank you, sir. I hope you 

 and the ither gentlemen will have a pleasant stay 

 in the Highlands." 



u2 



