THE BAY OF BISCAY, 161 



a population of fully 10,000. Its seamen had for 

 a long time no rivals in the whale and cod fisheries ; 

 and, as late as the middle of the last century, it 

 enjoyed a state of the greatest commercial pros- 

 perity. Louis XIV. and the Spanish Infanta re- 

 ceived the nuptial benediction in the principal 

 church of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, and this event is still 

 referred to with considerable pride by the inha- 

 bitants. Elated at the honour of having lodged 

 the king within their walls*, whilst his suite and 

 equipages remained at Bayonne, they contemptuously 

 designate this latter town as the stables of Saint- 

 Jean-de-Luz. This, however, must be but a mourn- 

 ful source of consolation ; for the real struggle, 

 which once existed between these two towns, has 

 for many years past been a mere tradition, and Ba- 

 yonne has nothing now to fear from her old rival. 

 The ocean even seems to have taken part with 

 her, and every year this formidable auxiliary is 

 carrying away, piece by piece, some fragment of 

 Saint- Jean-de-Luz. 



This is no exaggeration, for I simply express a fact 

 which is but too evident. If you go to the rocks 

 which form the left bank of the mouth of the Ni- 

 velle, you will everywhere see traces of foundations 

 and a few fragments of broken walls ; yet this was 

 once one of the ancient quarters of the town. If 

 you proceed along the sandy beach at the foot of the 

 bay, you will find at fifty feet or more in advance 



* The inhabitants of the district always speak of this event as if 

 it were an occurrence of a very recent date. They never refer to 

 this king as Louis XIV., but they always speak of him as le roi, 

 VOL. II. M 



