HARDKNOT CAMP 149 



To reach the head of Esdale the traveller may 

 avail himself of a funny little railway, constructed 

 some time ago for the use of some iron workings, 

 which, happily for the beauty of the vale, have 

 proved abortive. He will not fail to admire the 

 Protean versatility of one of the Company's officials, 

 who, leaving Ravenglass in the capacity of guard, 

 jumps from his van on arriving at a station, becomes 

 station-master, produces a key, unlocks the booking- 

 office, and turns into booking-clerk. Then, metamor- 

 phosed into porter, he attends to the baggage of 

 rare passengers, sounds his whistle, and presto ! 

 is once more guard as the train moves off. But to 

 arrive at Hardknot pleasantly, the tourist will do 

 better to let himself be driven, or ride his bicycle, 

 along the road which, following the brawling Esk, 

 threading the oak copse, and, being indeed of greater 

 excellence than many more frequented highways, is 

 altogether a path of pleasantness. He may turn 

 off near Randall Holm to inspect the Roman tile- 

 works at the foot of Muncaster Fell ; and then, push- 

 ing on to the farm of JButter-Eldkeld, about twelve 

 miles from Ravenglass, he comes in full view of Sea 

 Fell. At this point the road, hitherto thoroughly 

 well behaved, in spite of occasional mildly subalpine 



