LIFE IN WATER 199 



For this you will need two pieces of glass for the sides 

 10 X 8 inches, two for the ends 8X5, and the bottom one 

 10 X 5. Go to a tinner and have him make you a frame 

 out of angle tin to fit the glass plates. 



Make aquarium cement by using eight parts by weight 

 of dry putty, one part red lead, and one part litharge. 

 Mix as wanted for use with pure raw linseed oil to the 

 consistency of stiff putty. To set the glass, first put on the 

 cement evenly all around the bottom of the frame, and 

 then press the glass into place. Put in the sides and ends 

 in the same way. Carefully put a few very limber, green 

 twigs into the aquarium to hold the glass in place until the 

 cement hardens. Cut off all the superfluous cement and 

 smooth neatly along the seams and angles. The aquarium 

 should stand at least a week to become thoroughly dry 

 before putting water into it. 



While the aquarium described above will be found very 

 convenient, aquatic animals may be studied in jars of 

 various kinds. Candy, butter, and Mason jars are good 

 substitutes for more elaborate aquaria. Cheap glass 

 dishes that can be purchased for ten or fifteen cents serve 

 very well for certain aquatic animals, such as the water 

 bugs, beetles, and young dragon flies. 



In arranging an aquarium that is to be kept perma- 

 nently, a good rule to follow is to make conditions as nearly 

 like those of the pond as possible. Let the children help 

 to decide what to put into it. A few inches of sand in the 

 bottom, a few stones, and a little of the decaying matter 

 found in the bottom of the pond with some of the water 

 plants makes a good home for any of the animals named 

 above. Let the children decide also what animals they 



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