MAY 129 



of a hearty welcome on account of his nationality ; and 

 it certainly contributes to the pleasure of foreign 

 travel to feel that one's presence is not an offence to the 

 resident population. 



There is a good deal to attract interest in the build- 

 ings of Copenhagen, though the Christiansborg Palace, 

 burnt down in 1794 and rebuilt, burnt down again in 

 1884 and not yet rebuilt, stands silent and roofless, 

 with grass-grown courts, in the midst of the bright, 

 busy town. The sentries on the present royal residence 

 recall by their equipment the armies of the eighteenth 

 century; they always pace their beats in pairs, 

 earnestly conversing, and each is equipped with a 

 sword slung in the old-fashioned shoulder belt, an 

 enormous antique cartridge pouch hanging from the 

 other shoulder, besides carrying rifle and bayonet. 



But the attractions of the town are duly set forth in 

 many guide-books ; perhaps its chief charm is the ease 

 with which escape is made to a lovely country. Yes, 

 for it is lovely in spring, though Denmark can boast no 

 mountain scenery, no running water larger than a fair 

 water-jump. Let me not do this sweet land injustice ; 

 it has its alpine tract round Silkeborg in Jutland, where 

 the heaven-splitting Himmelbjerg rears its proud crest 

 to the altitude of no less than 515 feet the highest 

 point in the kingdom. But nowhere can you get far 

 from water, either fresh lakes or salt fjords, and with 

 water, green fields, deep woods, and wild flowers, you 

 must be hard to please if beauty does not abound for 

 you. 



