THE SUDD 261 



thereby. In the more severe collisions a crash and a 

 quiver permeates the whole fabric of the ship, and the 

 sudden jerk sends all loose furniture flying". Frequently 

 one hears an ominous scrunch and scrape as breaking- 

 canes grind along the bulwarks outside ; presently through 

 an open port intrudes a great bushy papyrus-head, with 

 plumes a yard across. Should such event happen at 

 meal-times, look out for the whole paraphernalia of the 

 table bottles and glasses, cups, dishes, plates the 

 whole outfit is swept in common ruin to the floor. 

 Naturally these excitements are accentuated on the 

 downward voyage, when the speed of the steamer is 

 accelerated by that of the stream, and steerage-control 

 is less effective. 



Yet worse still is the plight of the traveller whose 

 gyassa is under "towage" a local euphemism which 

 implies his vessel being lashed, broadside-on, alongside 

 the steamer, the wretched gyassa thus acting 1 the part of 

 a fender or buffer. The lesser craft receives the full force 

 of each recurring impact ; her beams and timbers creak 

 and crack under the compression, while everything out- 

 board is swept to destruction. Even ordinary deck-fittings, 

 such as companion-ways, side-rails, shrouds and the like, 

 oft share the general wreckage. 



Such drawbacks are, after all, the merest trifles ; sinking 

 into absolute insignificance as compared with the comfort 

 and enormous advantage of being enabled to travel by 

 steam right through the heart of Africa. 



From a naturalist's point of view the Sudd is equally 

 uninteresting a dreary, lifeless desolation. Day after 

 day the diary contains such records as: "Not a single 

 note to be made to-day" or, "Spent the whole day 

 passing through what resembles a hideous canal, the 

 towering papyrus blocking our view on either side. Not 

 even a hippo or a crocodile to be seen ; there is neither 

 food for them nor landing-places." Again: "Wildfowl 

 are all but non-existent in the Sudd. I have watched 



