290 SAVAGE SUDAN 



these wagtails feeding" among water-lilies, and there was 

 a pretty rivalry in colours between the gorgeous golden 

 breasts of the birds set off by velvet-black skullcaps 

 and the golden petals of the flowers. 



(iv) REJAF 



Rejaf, my "farthest south," leaves many memories 

 above all that inspiring vista of Afric's " Central Divide," 

 the parting of Nile and Congo, which can be enjoyed 

 after a couple of hours' ramble along the rocky ridges 

 west of Rejaf koppie. Thence, as from Pisgeh, opens 

 up a glorious breadth of game-country stretching away 

 to the mountains of the Congo, and specially notable 

 as a haunt of two of Africa's biggest and least-known 

 mammals the giant eland and white rhinoceros. That 

 Eden, however, is closed to sportsmen by reason of the 

 prevailing "sleeping-sickness." The only large animals 

 observed were gazelles, certain unidentified hartebeests 

 which were either tiang or topi, and two small herds of 

 Uganda cob, together with much old elephant-spoor. 1 

 Baboons abounded on the crags ; but no vision of the 

 chimpanzee fell within my eye-range, nor even of the 

 more familiar Colobus monkey, or of the giant forest-hog 

 (Hylockcerus), all three of which are recorded to exist in 

 these mountain fastnesses. A hawk which I shot on 

 these hills my most southern point proved to be a 

 common English kestrel! 



Here one meets that amiable tribe the Nyam- 

 Nyams, cannibals, who, being deprived by insular British 

 prejudice of what was reputed their favourite food, have 



1 It was in this region then known as the Lado Enclave (which was 

 leased for his lifetime to King Leopold of Belgium) that there was per- 

 petrated that massacre of elephants which a few years ago "staggered 

 humanity." This occurred during the interregnum between the death of 

 Leopold and the resumption of British control. What the exact slaughter 

 amounted to, there is no means of knowing. Undoubtedly it was indis- 

 criminate and brutal ; but much of the sensationalism that trickled into 

 the newspapers read like the quintessence of silliness. 



