XIV CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Start for Ladak — The beautiful Sind valley — The capital of 

 Ladak — Burning sun and variations of temperature — Cap- 

 tain Basevi, R.E. — Join a brother sportsman — Buddhist 

 manes — Cross the Chang la — The Himalayan and Tibetan 

 perpetual-snow lines — Tanksee — Our guide Changter — Cheap 

 mutton — View of the Pangong tso (lake) — Clearness of 

 Tibetan atmosphere — Across the Marsemik la — "Chung" 

 and " grim " — Changchenmo — A treacherous ford — The 

 Kugrang glen — The kiang — Antelopes — A bewildered buck 

 — Completely " pumped " — The " tsos," or Tibetan antelope 

 — Unpleasant effects of rarefied air — The native's idea con- 

 cerning them — Striking scenery — The dong, or wild yak — 

 Tibetan fox — Stalking a dong — Yak beef — A snowy night and 

 a cheerless morning — Boortze the chief fuel of Tibet — A Tartar 

 breakfast — Hair-cutting with a knife — Tibetan hares — Trout- 

 like fish — We celebrate our meeting with Captain Basevi — A 

 rare ?Jie7iw— Basevi's sad fate, ..... 228 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



The Ovis Amraon — The Pangong lake — A joyless solitude — Lone- 

 liness — Lukkur's escapade — The cause of it — A long and lucky 

 shot — The lord of the flock is left behind — Black wolf — 

 Tibetan marmot — Camped above 17,000 feet, . 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Hanle — Tlie Goa or Tibetan gazelle — Two bucks descried — Re- 

 sult of forgetting to load — The Chinese border — An interview 

 with the borderers — Their behaviour — A curious incident — 

 A lucky right-and-left — Great variety of wild-llowers — Packs 

 of sand-grouse — The Tso Morari — Its characteristics — Wild 

 geese — A high and cold camp — Twelve degrees of frost in 

 August — The Tso Kar or Salt Lake — Its fresh- water neigh- 

 bour — Wild-fowl — A blanket city — Brood of snow- pheasants — 

 A snowy waste — Valley of the Parang — The Parang la — 

 Across it in a snowstorm — Endurance of the yak — A ludicrous 

 picture — The summit at last — Nature's awful works — A 

 surgical oj^eration — The napoo or burrell — Two killed — Im- 



