CONTENTS. XV 



mcnse glaciers — Kulu scenery — Return to civilisation — An 

 old but interesting newspaper — Kangra valley — The end of a 

 long journey, ....... 264 



CHAPTER XX. 



Prepare to revisit trans-Himalayan regions — The Bhotias — After 

 talir — Up the valley of the Doulee— Cascade of Bingareebeyl 

 — An " enchanted " glen — Bad ground — Our coolies object to 

 proceed — Puddoo's persuasive powers — A precarious position 

 — An unpleasant night in an eerie situation — A mysterious old 

 tahr — A sanctuary for game — Musk-deer — A grand surprise 

 — Superb snow-scene — Doonagiri purbat — Old tahr bucks — 

 Their eccentric gambols — The evil genius of the glen dogs our 

 footsteps — Up among the clouds — A short cut not always the 

 quickest — Surprise a musk-deer in the mist — Overtaken by 

 darkness — A rather perilous descent — Welcome assistance, . 288 



CHAPTER XXL 



Doonagiri village — A Himalayan glacier — Ascents of Himalayan 

 snow -peaks — Obstacles thereto — Burrell-ground — Kill two 

 rams — Female porters — Fine old deodar-trees — Bhotia vil- 

 lages of Kosa and Malari — Burglarious bears — Solitude and 

 desolation — Bhotias, male and female — Niti village— Strange 

 collection of old shoes — Tibetan envoy — The " Jooboo " — 

 From Niti to Goting — Summer avalanches — Old birch-trees — 

 Snow-pheasants — Bad walking — A day's sport at Goting — An 

 awkward bridge — Alpine rose — A grand old ram — A mistake 

 — A snow-leopard shares our spoils — Wild defile — The Niti 

 pass — View of Hundes from its summit — A noteworthy water- 

 shed — Sketching under difficulties — A terribly cold camp — A 

 deputation from the Jongpen — Our Hoonya escort, . . 303 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Impressions of Hundes — Wary old rams — Kiangs in the way — 

 The Jongpen's ' messengers return — Signing a contract — 

 Strange acoustic effect — Hoonya sheep-shearing, milking, 

 &c. — An Ovis Amnion with bronchitis — Grey wolves — 

 Dongpu — A Tartar hamlet — Large troops of kiang — Their 



