A WELCOME HAVEN. 83 



way to the place where he had directed the coolies to make 

 (or. This was, as hitherto, a kind of open cave formed by 

 tlie big rocks that overhung it. We reached this welcome 

 haven just before dark, weary and wet through. The 

 coolies had arrived some time before us, and there was a 

 savoury odour arising from the cooking quarter, which was 

 most grateful to us, tired and hungry as we were. 



In the Himalayas, at this time of year, the atmosphere 

 is often dim with a bluish gauzy haze, which gives the 

 mountains, and especially the more distant ones, a beauti- 

 fully soft and dreamy appearance. This effect is probably 

 due to the air being permeated with thin smoke, caused by 

 the old dry grass on the mountain-slopes being, at this 

 season, so much fired by the villagers, in order that the 

 young green blades afterwards springing up on the burnt 

 ground may the sooner afford fresh pasturage for their 

 herds. I have seen the same effect produced by the smoke 

 from the forest-fires in the Kocky Mountains and the back- 

 woods of Canada during " the fall," when a sudden change 

 of wind will dispel it in an hour or two, and make the 

 atmosphere as clear as ever. 



Next morning we had not gone much over half a mile 

 from our cave when we descried some dark objects moving 

 among the rocks away down below. 



" They are bucks for certain, as they look so black," so 

 say Kurbeer and the shikaree, as I proceed to adjust the 

 telescope, using my iron-shod staff as a rest for it ; and 

 bucks they prove to be. Three or four only are visible, 

 but others may be hidden by the rocks. If they remain 

 where they are, we can pretty easily approach them unseen, 

 though it will be more difficult to do so unheard. For 

 when stalking animals from above on precipitous ground, 

 be it ever so favourable as regards cover, there always 

 remains the probability of detaching loose stones, and of 

 making more noise in clambering downwards than upwards. 



As my two companions, with bare feet, generally precede 



