90 SHEEP AS BEASTS OF BURDEN. 



ornaments, principally consisting of silver amulets, strings of 

 large coral or other beads, and large lumps of rough amber 

 and turquoise, either real or sham, worn round the neck. 



The occupation of both sexes appeared to be spinning wool 

 with their spindles, which, whether sitting or strolling, they 

 kept perpetually twirling, even when tending their large 

 droves of sheep and goats. These animals they use as beasts 

 of burden, each carrying down from Tibet its little load of 

 borax or salt in a small pair of bags, and returning with them 

 refilled with rice or other grain. The heavier articles are 

 carried on stout ponies, or on yaks — the bovine cattle of 

 Tibet. 



The women had very much the same dress and general 

 appearance as the men, excepting a long narrow flap of cloth, 

 extending from the top of the head down the back to below 

 the waist, and ornamented with bits of amber, turquoise, coral, 

 and cowry-shells. They were strongly built like the men, 

 but, as a rule, not a whit less plain in feature. The excep- 

 tions were two or three sturdy young girls, whose rosy cheeks 

 and merry expressions gave their faces a pleasing look, which 

 in a great measure compensated for their lack of real beauty. 



Whilst mentioning the flocks, their canine guardians 

 should not be forgotten. Two or three of the fine large dogs, 

 known as Tibetan mastiffs, invariably follow the camp of 

 these nomads. They are most excellent watch-dogs, and 

 never seem to rest during the night, when, much to the an- 

 noyance of the weary traveller who may chance to encamp 

 near, their deep-toned bark is incessantly heard. As some of 

 these dogs are both bold and savage, a man or even a beast 

 of prey would be rash in approaching a Tartar camp after 

 dark ; and, when protected by the strong iron-spiked collar 

 they usually wear, they are quite fit to cope even with a 

 marauding leopard. 



Notwithstanding the comparative smallness of the bag, 

 my first trip to " the snows " had been most enjoyable ; and 

 to the true lover of wild sport, who is always an ardent 



