i82 FOOD AND COOKERY 



to judge of the competence of a servant or not. Many of 

 these " mistresses " now devote themselves exclusively to 

 "dress," "amusements," "charity," "politics," and dabbling 

 inconsequently in various crazes. They are not to blame. 

 It is the men who are to blame who deliberately neglect 

 to give to their womenkind a training and education 

 which shall make them real mistresses of household arts 

 and business, so that they may be thus filled with the 

 happy conviction (which is the one thing they most desire 

 and most often cannot gain) that they are of real use are 

 really wanted in the world. 



In conclusion, let me tell of a great German sportsman, 

 Major von Wissman, Governor of German East Africa, 

 now no more, who came to see me at the Museum nine 

 years ago. It was his first visit to London, and I took him 

 to lunch at a famous grill-room. Happily, though roasting 

 is dying out, the art of grilling still survives in this country, 

 but nowhere else in Europe. Von Wissman said "Can I 

 have beer where we are going?" "Yes, certainly," I said. 

 "German beer?" he asked. " No," I replied. "Something 

 much better." When we were seated, I ordered a pint 

 tankard of Reid's London stout for my friend. It was in 

 perfect condition. He put his lips to it in doubt, but did 

 not remove them until, with reverential drooping of the 

 eyelids, he had emptied the tankard. " The very finest 

 beer I have ever swallowed," he said. " What in the name 

 of goodness is it?" I told him, and ordered him more. 

 Soon a perfectly grilled chop and a large, clean, floury 

 potato were before him. He proceeded to eat, and was 

 really and unaffectedly astonished. " But this is marvellous," 

 he said "wonderful! enchanting! I have never really 

 tasted meat before in my life. Reitzend! Colossal!" He 

 had a steak to follow, and I was pleased to have been 

 able to show him something which I knew (by experience 

 of that city) they could not produce in Berlin. Three 



