CHAPTER I. 



Embark at Martin's Pier, Brooklyn; Delayed by fog in the lower harbor ; 

 Rough weather while crossing the Gtilf Stream; Through the Sargasso 

 Sea; Flights of flying fish; The Portuguese Man of War; PhospJior- 

 escence of surface waters in the Tropics; Sighting the Pernambuco 

 lights; Lobos Island; Maldonado ; Montevideo, its architecture and 

 cleanliness; Arrival at Buenos Aires ; Courteous treatment from the 

 Argentine officials ; A visit to the La Plata Museum ; Leave Buenos Aires 

 for Gal/egos; The River Plate; Bahia Blanca; Argentine soldiers ; San 

 Bias; New Bay ; Port Desire; Santa Cruz; Arrival at Gallegos. 



EARLY on the morning of February 29, 1896, we embarked at Mar- 

 tin's Pier, Brooklyn, on the S. S. Gallileo of the Lamport and Holt 

 line, which was to convey us as far as Buenos Aires. Surely the 

 name of so renowned a scientist as was Gallileo should be considered a 

 good omen, if not an absolute guarantee of the success of our undertaking. 

 However this may be, we had been careful to see that all our paraphernalia 

 had been put aboard the previous day, that there might be no unneces- 

 sary hurry at the last moment. On the morning of the day mentioned 

 we ourselves went aboard fully prepared for our long journey. Our 

 enthusiasm was undeniably at a high pitch, and it must be confessed that 

 in our minds there existed no misgivings as to the final success of our 

 mission. Promptly at nine o'clock all was ready, and the Company's tug 

 towed the Gallileo from her berth out into mid-stream, and we were off 

 on our trip to the other end of the world. But we were soon destined 

 to a slight disappointment and delay. Hardly had we got under way 

 than the clouds, which all the morning had hung low and threatening, 

 settled down to the very surface of the water and buried the great city 

 and the bay in a dense fog. This compelled us to come to anchor in the 

 lower harbor, where we were detained for the remainder of the day and 

 night. A little exasperated at this delay, we made the best of it, and 

 together with the other passengers employed our time in writing letters 



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