OUR JOURNEY UP THE UBANGUI 243 



resembled our South Downs. They were covered with fresh 

 green of lately burnt-ofi grass, and near the top of the ridge 

 a stratum of white stone appeared, looking like chalk at a 

 distance ; patches of dark-green trees filled the hollows and 

 crept right over the ridge like hog-backs. From the top an 

 undulating grass country is seen rolling away to the north. 



About fifty miles above Banzyville we came to the 

 Setema Rapids. The entrance to these is not more than 

 sixty yards across, then the river suddenly bulges, and a 

 group of hills, about 120 ft. in height, follows round the semi- 

 circle of the right bank. The little village of Setema lies 

 opposite on the left bank, where the current swirls down at 

 a tremendous rate, taking a Z-shaped course past the many 

 reefs and groups of rocks before gaining the open water 

 below. This is the only possible course for navigation. 

 After two hours' hard work with the help of the chain and 

 some of the Setema men, the boats were hauled up safely to 

 the farther end. Just beyond the village the water again 

 becomes broken up by rocks and reefs across the river for 

 half a mile ; but by dint of strong poling and the use of the 

 chain, we got safely through at last. 



Along this part of the river the banks are well populated 

 with the Yakomas, who are the true Sungo stock. The men 

 are veritable giants ; they are very intelligent and wonderful 

 watermen ; with small paddles, not more than 3 ft. long, 

 they drive their large canoes at a prodigious rate, and when 

 passing the most formidable rapids, show a reckless daring 

 that is truly wonderful. 



After the danger is over and the boat glides along 

 under their strokes, these giants break out into musical 



