370 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



where we were for the night and at sunrise start again for the 

 Nile. They seemed satisfied and with a good deal of 

 demonstration went a little way oif and, sticking their 

 spears head downwards in the ground, returned and sat down 

 near us. Their bump of inquisitiveness must have been 

 largely developed, for it was extraordinary to see with what 

 minute care they examined every Httle thing belonging to us. 

 The happy party, however, was soon destined to be broken 

 up when the chief with his headman and more of his warriors 

 arrived on the scene. He was an elderly man, somewhat 

 bent, and had an evil countenance. His angry gestures 

 brought the other men to their feet and to their spears as 

 well. 



Before his arrival I had told the Dinkas as well as I could 

 by signs that I should go up presently to see their village, 

 so when the chief came I thought it a good opportunity to 

 carry out my purpose, and was just starting when his head- 

 man threw himself across my path and begged me not to 

 go. However, having given out my decision, there was no 

 question now of turning back, and I went on with Umuru. 

 The chief and his men followed us with tongues all wagging 

 wildly and spears agitated. Things began to look ugly, and 

 I could hear Umuru behind me muttering, ^''bachou — 

 bachou"'' ("no good"). In half an hour we reached the 

 village which proved to be nothing more than a collection 

 of dirty huts scattered among the millet. A minute or two 

 sufficed for seeing everything. Then I told the chief to 

 come back with me and I would give him a " dash ; " but he 

 shook his head, so I turned and left. Looking back soon 

 afterwards I saw aU the men gathered in a knot as if con- 



