MARKHOR 



" Better let your servant sit up in front next the 

 driver/' said Major Sir John Milbanke, my kind 

 Amphitryon, " then he can at least swallow the dust 

 and any other nice morsels that may fly into the 

 vehicle on this lively drive ; also, he will be the first 

 to fall off if the horses stumble or if the wheels come 

 off. Make up your mind to all sorts of pleasant 

 things, especially on the brink of the steepest 

 precipices ! Anyhow, try to make yourself as com- 

 fortable as possible, for it is an endless journey to 

 Srinagar three whole days, and up- and down-hill 

 the whole way ! " 



I sat alone on the back seat and resigned myself 

 to rubbing, pushing, and trying to keep steady by 

 sitting back to back with Paul and the driver. 

 These tongas have a roof curved like a Moorish 

 arch as a sort of protection against sun and rain, and 

 chiefly for carrying the luggage. But it was hard for 

 the latter to withstand the shaking and jolting of 

 the cart, and a good lot of it rolled off into the road 

 when straps and strings could no longer bear the 

 strain. 



I held tight with my arms and legs, for the horses 

 started at a sharp trot. Farewell, ye kind and 

 hospitable loth Hussars ! 



Not only at every corner, but also on the straight 

 road the tonga-horn blew a shrill note of warning. 

 Run, save yourselves, flee, you pedestrians and oxen- 

 waggons ! Room for the tonga ! 



