52 THE MARKHOR 



Three shikaris, the cook, the chiprassi it was the 

 latter's duty to set up the tents formed Paul's staff, 

 and eighteen coolies carried the baggage. 



The village magnates received me with deference 

 the Tassildar, the Lambardar, the Jamardar, the 

 Chokidar, the Himaldar, and the Hesseldar. Each 

 of them filled a high office, and they all wore broad, 

 faded ribbons over their rags. I was adorned with 

 chains of flowers and sprinkled with rose-water, 

 whilst expressions of homage were poured out like 

 incense before me, " Uzur qui merbani." " Your 

 honour has only to command," was the chorus 

 uttered by all, accompanied by deep bows and move- 

 ments of the hand signifying respect : " I will free 

 thy feet from dust, oh, mighty one, and will kiss the 

 ground whereon thou treadest ! " 



Their faces fascinated me ; one could see deter- 

 mination, strength of will, and cruelty beneath the 

 mask of imperturbable calm. I seemed to see a 

 devil in each face ; and yet they are children, good 

 children whether young or old, always children. 

 Education, civilisation have not yet reached these 

 heights ; here there are no tigers creeping about, no 

 snakes ever on the watch ; the wild creatures in 

 these parts are far more harmless. The tempestuous, 

 plague-stricken plains of India are still too far away 

 to work mischief with word and writ, to stir up 

 hatred against the stranger. Passion is here con- 

 fined to the village itself ; hope and disappointment, 



