ROUGHING IT IN SOUTHERN INDIA 19 



little porters at a time, so ten were engaged to make it easy 

 for them ; four and four, change about, and two over in 

 case of breakdown. 



A short trial by these gentlemen of the palanquin with 

 me in it (though I only weighed seven stone in those days) 

 convinced them that it was beyond their strength — sheer 

 cruelty to force them to it — and they began to cry so piteously 

 and noisily that it was quite impossible to go on causing 

 such suffering. Those trying to bear up under the burden 

 cried, those who had relinquished it cried, and the two 

 odd ones cried in anticipation. Essaying the climb myself, 

 clinging to the strong creepers and vines everywhere to 

 one's hand, seemed preferable to sitting between four 

 sobbing and perspiring mortals. That they really suffered 

 it was impossible to believe, for no sooner had they set me 

 down, with a great show of care and with very loud and 

 needless grunts of exhaustion and relief, than they picked 

 up that featherweight of an empty palanquin, forgetting to 

 change hands with it in their glee, and scrambled along like 

 monkeys ; chattering, too, like monkeys, and showing their 

 brilliantly white teeth : no more tears ! 



But this plan did not answer ; I could not get along very 

 fast, and we had the ascent to make before the sun should 

 get too powerful. Fortunately the peons 1 were able before 

 long to find four stout hill-men willing to undertake the 

 required duty. The difficulty at the moment we had wanted 

 bearers was due to the fact that a very special festival was 

 in full swing, from which no one could, or wished to, be 

 spared, barring the poor little Churmers aforesaid. Their 

 company was never wanted, owing, among other reasons, to 

 their repulsive manner of feeding on anything and every- 

 thing — carrion for choice : of living things they liked 



1 Pronounced pewns. Government servants (corresponding somewhat to 

 orderlies in military service) who always attended F. and all Government 

 officials. 



