ROUGHING IT IN SOUTHERN INDIA 107 



exactly, and is the atmosphere aimed at in a conservatory 

 for tropical plants. For miles it was the same, alternating 

 with stretches of level country, either wooded, or with fields 

 of waving paddy (rice), for all the world like soft green 

 plush. 



One day as we were passing such a flat bit, where the 

 banks were muddy and trampled-looking, I happened to 

 dangle my fingers over the boat's side ; whereupon the men 

 made signs to me to take them in, telling F., who interpreted 

 to me, that the crocodiles would suppose them to be fish. 

 A creepy idea that, its being taken for granted that there 

 were crocodiles alongside on the lookout for food ; so I kept 

 my fingers strictly to myself afterwards, and got F. to ask 

 if the crocodiles were likely to climb into the boat after 

 them. The reply was, ' No, that would be prevented,' 

 which was meant reassuringly ; but it scared me the 

 rather, as I had not put the question seriously in fear of an 

 attempt. Yet on a previous occasion, when we were on a 

 raft, an extra voracious, or especially daring crocodile did 

 follow, and actually begin to board, us. At this the man 

 poling thrust his bamboo into the open jaws and pushed it 

 as far down as he could, thus effectually checkmating the 

 intruder. I expected to see the water reddened with its 

 blood and then to have it killed outright. No such thing ! 

 It merely took itself off, clambered up the bank, and started 

 eating some fish bones, as if nothing had happened. 



Hereabouts, half-hidden amongst gardens shady with 

 toddy and cocoanut palms, plantains, and other trees, 

 houses clustered, despite the crocodile drawback. That 

 it was considered none became more and more evident as 

 we proceeded, for at one point in our voyage where a huge 

 crocodile lay basking, half-asleep, in the sun, two women 

 sat composedly drying their long hair but a yard or two 

 away from it. They called out for those higher up on the 

 bank to come down and look at us, and out they all flocked, 



