ROUGHING IT IN SOUTHERN INDIA 225 



It is a curious fact that these jarring incongruities that 

 set one's teeth on edge in Eastern palaces are found only 

 when the native designers and artificers, who are true artists 

 in their perception of form and colouring, depart from their 

 own sphere ; they can blend everything of their own pro- 

 duction, and can even create. Curious it is, too, that all 

 around is seen marvellous beauty of workmanship joined 

 to the most horrifying animalism — indeed, brutality — in 

 some of the designs. Most intricate and fine was the open- 

 work carving of the blackwood furniture, of the ivories, 

 the tortoise-shell, and other things ; but a minute scrutiny 

 was often impossible, so unspeakable were the subjects of 

 all this delicate handiwork. 



The cushioning of the sofas and chairs was covered with 

 the flimsiest crimson or yellow brocaded satin of an un- 

 pleasant feeling, papery sort. And it is a strange thing, too, 

 in connection with India's matchless needlecraft that it is 

 done on such a coarse ground, gold and silver and exquis- 

 itely harmonised silks being embroidered on muslin or on 

 common black calico that will hardly support the weight 

 of the beautiful work ; in contrast there with the equally 

 fantastic loveliness of Chinese and Japanese creations, 

 which are always worked upon a silken fabric worthy of 

 such adornment, with both sides showing the same perfect 

 finish. 



At native banquets, or rather those given in honour of 

 English guests, the menu is somewhat of a trial, etiquette 

 demanding that one eat, or at any rate taste, something of 

 everything, in order to show that one has no suspicion of 

 poisoning. For instance, a heaped-up plateful was put 

 before me ; it was pillau of kid, delicious to those who eat 

 it in happy ignorance as to how that kid was procured, but 

 to those who know, as I did, most horrible : the mother was 

 killed before its birth. 



The sweetmeats — metais — however are always delight- 



p 



