38 



THE GRAPE CULTURIST. 



might too severely check the growth of the vine, but three 

 quarters of the number may be cut back, or entirely re- 

 moved, without doing any injury. 



The young shoots that have been selected for cuttings 

 should be divided into pieces of two buds each, cutting 

 them off just below a bud ; the leaf adjoining the lower 

 bud should be removed, but the upper one must be left 

 entire. Fig. 10 shows the appearance of the cutting when 



ready for planting ; a 

 shows the surface of the 

 soil when placed in the 

 pots. Plant these cuttings 

 in six or eight inch pots 

 filled with sand, putting 

 several cuttings in each, 

 but not crowding them ; 

 press the sand down firmly 

 around the cutting, leaving 

 only the upper leaf and bud 

 uncovered, and then put 

 the pots within the frames, 

 Fig * 10< in the same manner as de- 



scribed for single eyes. To prevent rapid exhalation from 

 the leaves, the atmosphere in the frames should be kept a 

 little more confined than for ripe wood cuttings. Venti- 

 late the frames but little until roots are produced. Keep 

 the heat from 80 to 90, and see that there is plenty of 

 moisture, but not so much as to rot the cuttings or cause 

 them to mildew. Ventilation will usually check the mil- 

 dew, and withholding water prevent rotting. 



In from two to four weeks, if successful, the cuttings 

 will be sufficiently rooted to be separated and put into 

 small pots. An occasional examination of the cuttings will 

 enable the propagator to determine the proper time to do 

 this. When the roots are two inches in length, they 

 should be removed from the large pots and placed in three- 



