94 THE GRAPE CULTUEIST. 



ter where we begin to trench, whether in the middle or at 

 one side of the field. 



This inverting the soil, as described, is the simplest 

 method of trenching, and is as efficient as any, provided 

 the subsoil is not of a character so inferior that it will not 

 be rendered suited to the growth of plants by being ex- 

 posed a few months to the atmosphere. The subsoils of 

 light sandy soils are often richer than the surface, as a great 

 portion of the enriching materials that have been applied 

 to the surface has been carried down by the rains to the 

 subsoil below. But the natural richness of the subsoil 

 when thrown upon the surface should seldom be depended 

 upon, but manure must be added, and thoroughly incorpo- 

 rated with it before planting. 



There are many circumstances in which the soil may be 

 inverted to the depth of two feet with benefit such as 

 sandy or light loamy soils, or where manure can be liber- 

 ally applied, and a year be given for the amelioration of 

 the condition of the subsoil before planting. Where these 

 circumstances do not exist, it is best not to throw the sub- 

 soil on top, but to mix it with the surface-soil at the time 

 of trenching. 



To do this thoroughly and conveniently, the workmen 

 should stand in the trench, and keep an open space at the 

 bottom on which to stand. Then, by digging down the 

 bank and throwing it over against the opposite side, break 

 up the lumps at the same time ; the soil may not only be 

 thoroughly pulverized, but the surface-soil and subsoil 

 will become thoroughly intermingled. 



A five-tined spading-fork is the best implement for 

 trenching unless the soil is very hard and stony, in such 

 cases the spade and pick must be used. 



Although trenching is indispensable upon very hard and 

 stony soils and upon steep side-hills, on level situations or 

 those with only a moderate inclination (and they are 

 always preferable) the plow may take the place of the 



