32 The Dahlia 



After severing the shoot from the plant, take the 

 cutting in the left hand, between linger and thumb, 

 and, with a sharp knife, cut just below the joint, 

 afterwards removing the leaves on either side, and 

 insert in the soil up to the next joint. 



If single pots are used those of two inches in 

 diameter will be large enough, but a more economical 

 use of the bottom heat may be made by placing four 

 cuttings in a three-inch pot, keeping them close to the 

 edge, as they take root more readily against the side of 

 the pot. In taking off the cuttings be careful to label 

 one variety before taking off another. Omitting this 

 is often a prolific source of mistakes. As soon as the 

 cuttings are off and dibbled in the pots (always use a 

 blunt stick, and see that the base of the cutting is at 

 the bottom of the hole), before they have time to flag, 

 plunge the pots to the rim in a bottom heat of 70 

 no more. Whatever forcing place the cuttings may 

 be placed in, the glass over them should be heavily 

 whitewashed ; then there is no fear of forgetting to 

 shade them when a burst of sunshine conies along. 



It is most important that the frame or propagating 

 pit has plenty of air, for nothing is so destructive to 

 Dahlia cuttings as a close stagnant atmosphere. Air 

 should be admitted night and day freely, and a sharp 

 bottom heat kept up, otherwise the leaves will turn 

 black and damp off. When cuttings are first put in, 

 give them a good soaking of water, and, when necessary, 

 afterwards dew them over with a syringe or fine rose. 

 If the soil becomes dry, give another good soaking, 

 always using tepid water. 



In about three weeks the cuttings will be all rooted, 

 and the pots will be ready for removing to a cool 



