34 FORESTRY OF NORWAY. 



I looked upon it with involuntary suspension of the breath 

 and quickening of pulse, which is the surest recognition 

 of beauty. The whole scene, with its breadth and grandeur 

 of form, or its superb gloom of colouring, which enshrines 

 this one glorious flash of grace, and brightness, and loveli- 

 ness, is indelibly impressed upon my mind. Not alone 

 during that half hour of fading sunset, but day after day, 

 and night after night, the embroidered spray- wreaths of 

 the Rinkan were falling before me. 



' We turned away reluctantly at last, when the emerald 

 pavement of Undine's palace was no longer visible through 

 the shooting meteors of silver foam. The depths of West- 

 fjord-dal were filled with purple darkness ; and the perfect 

 pyramid of the Gousta, lifted upon a mountain basement 

 more than 4000 feet in height, shone like a colossal wedge 

 of fire against the violet sky. By the time we reached 

 our horses we discovered that we were hungry, and, leaving 

 the attendants to follow at their leisure, we urged the 

 tired animals down the rocky road. The smell of fresh- 

 cut grain and sweet mountain hay filled the cool evening 

 air ; darkness crept under the birches and pines, and we 

 no longer met the home-going harvesters.' 



It was between nine and ten ere they reached Dal ; and 

 in the dark they disturbed the sleepers in more than one 

 gaard before they reached their resting place. There 

 every arrangement was made for their comfort. There 

 was a white cloth on the table in the guest's house, some 

 roast mutton, potatoes, and beer, in praise of all which 

 the traveller waxes eloquent, graced the board, but there 

 was only emptiness when they arose they had consumed 

 all. In the upper room there were beds with linen fresh as 

 youth, and aromatic as spring ; ' and/ says he, ' the peace 

 of a full stomach and clear conscience descended upon our 

 sleep. 



' In the morning we prepared for an early return to 

 Mael, as the boatmen were anxious to get back to their 

 barley fields. I found but one expression in the guest's 

 book that of satisfaction with Ole Tergenseu, and cheer- 



