BULBS IN BEDS AND BORDERS. 21 



at the same period. It must, of course, be understood 

 that such bulbs as snowdrops, scillas, and crocuses usually 

 flower in advance of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils. 



Time to Plant. The precise season or period to 

 plant each kind of bulb is described in the table pub- 

 lished further on in this work. 



Soil and Planting: The next point for considera- 

 tion is the preparation of the soil and the planting. To 

 grow tulips and hyacinths well, the beds should be dug 

 two spits deep in early October, and have about three 

 inches of well-rotted manure placed a foot below the sur- 

 face. On no account mix manure with the upper layer 

 of soil, as bulbs dislike to have manure in direct contact 

 with them. If the soil be heavy, old potting mould, sand, 

 and leaf-mould may be freely mixed with the surface 

 mould. Bulbs, like hyacinths, tulips, and narcissi, should 

 be planted with their base four inches from the surface and 

 six inches apart. Those of smaller size, like the crocus, 

 should not be planted deeper than three inches, and the 

 same distance apart. Bulbs like chionodoxas should be 

 put in about three inches deep and an inch or so apart. 

 Use a flat-bottomed dibber for making the holes, so that 

 the base of the bulb rests directly on the soil. We prefer 

 to use a trowel for the large bulbs, and to simply press the 

 smaller ones in with our fingers. It is a good plan in the 

 case of choice tulips, narcissi, and hyacinths to put a pinch 

 of silver sand in each hole for the bulb to rest on. After 

 planting, mulch the surface of the bed with fibre refuse to 

 keep it neat and as a protection to the bulbs. When 

 hardy plants are grown as a carpeting to the bulbs it is 

 advisable to plant the latter eight to ten inches apart, 

 and to put one of the plants before described between 

 each pair of bulbs. The plants should be put in at the 

 same time as the bulbs. In spring, when the growth is 

 above the soil, lightly loosen it with a hoe or fork. Stak- 

 ing is rarely necessary, except in exposed positions, and 

 then it should be done soon after the spikes show. 



