22 BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION, 



Lifting- Bulbs, etcAfter flowering, the bulbs 

 should be carefully lifted and replanted in reserve beds to 

 complete their growth, after which again lift, dry, and store 

 away, as advised in the chapter on Lifting and Storing 

 elsewhere. The polyanthus and double daisies must also 

 be lifted, divided, and replanted in a shady border to make 

 strong growths for autumn planting. Cuttings should also 

 be taken of the double arabis and aubrietias, to ensure a 

 fresh supply of plants, while the violas may be replanted 

 elsewhere to furnish cuttings for rooting in August and 

 September. The forget-me-nots, wallflowers, and the 

 silenes are best reared annually from seed in July. 



II. CULTURE IN BORDERS. 



Soil and Position In small gardens, where the 

 borders do not exceed three feet wide, the bulbs may be 

 grown in rows; say, a row of crocuses as an edging, fol- 

 lowed by rows behind of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils; 

 they may be planted in groups of three, six, or a dozen 

 bulbs. In large gardens, where the borders are six or more 

 feet wide, and contain hardy perennials, the bulbs are best 

 grown in bold groups between the hardy plants. Thus 

 lilies may be grown in groups of not less than three bulbs 

 up to six or twelve bulbs; hyacinths, tulips, narcissi, 

 gladioli, 'Crocosmia, anemones, tritonias, English and 

 Spanish irises in groups of a dozen or more bulbs; and 

 smaller bulbs, like crocuses, snowdrops, muscaris, scillas, 

 chionodoxas, Allium moly, ranunculi, etc., in patches 

 of fifty or a hundred bulbs. Crown Imperial lilies should 

 also be grown in groups of three or six bulbs to look well. 

 Bulbs, conns, etc., always look more effective when boldly 

 massed than when grown in small groups. Small or low- 

 growing bulbs may be carpeted with violas, double arabis, 

 or aubrietias; then, when the former have ceased flower- 

 ing, the latter can take their place, the bulbs remaining in 



