148 



THE PERCH. 



disappears until spring, probably secluding himself in the 

 depths of the river. 



" The back fin of the perch is large, and armed with 

 strong spines. He is bold and ravenous. He will not give 

 way to the pike or to the black bass ; apd though he may 

 sometimes be eaten by them, his comrades will retaliate upon 

 the young of his destroyers. 



" The proper bait for the perch is the minnow. He will 

 take that all seasons. In mid-summer, however, he prefers 

 the worm, at which he generally bites freely. He is often 

 taken with the grub, or with small pieces of fish of any kind. 



' He is a capital fish at all times for the table. His flesh 

 is hard and savory. He should be fried with salt pork rather 

 than butter, and thoroughly done. He makes good chowder, 

 though inferior for that purpose to the black bass or the yel- 

 low pike. 



" A difference of opinion exists among our most tasteful 

 icthyophagists, as to whether this fish should be scaled or 

 skinned. Let me tell you how to skin him. Take a sharp 

 pointed knife, and rip up the skin along the back, from the 

 posterior extremity of the back fin, on one or both sides of it 

 along its whole length then take the fish firmly by the head 

 with the left hand, and with the right take hold of the skin of 

 the back near the head, first on one side and then on the 

 other, and peel it down over the tail. This being done, all 

 the fins are thereby removed except those of the back and 

 belly, which are easily drawn out by a gentle pulling towards 

 the head. Cut off the head, and you have a skinless, finless 

 lump of pure white flesh. Some say this is the only way a 

 perch should be prepared for the cook's art others say it 

 impairs the flavor, and should never be pursued. As for me, 

 I say, ' in medio tutissimus ibis,' neither of the disputants 

 is infallible. Much, very much of the sweetness of the perch 

 and indeed almost all fishes, resides in the skin, which should 



