WE LEAVE MOOKMEE. 105 



It took half a day to obtain horses for us 

 and to convmce the native horseboys that 

 they had at last reached the utmost bounds of 

 our patience and our paying powers. On 

 such occasions as these, when Platon and I 

 were busy haranguing the obstinate and 

 attempting to wheedle the relentmg, Frank, 

 being unable to understand the conversation, 

 generally performed the rule of sleepmg 

 partner to perfection, and in so doing showed 

 his wisdom. But neither of us fared sump- 

 tuously at such times ; indeed, it was always 

 from one discomfort to another, and our 

 spirits were none of the highest when we 

 started from Mookmer, the snow fallinof 

 rapidly and melting as it fell, our black 

 bourkas gripped tightly under our chins, and 

 the screws beneath us left to take care of 

 themselves as best they could. The road was 

 vile, but beautiful. Lovely scenery and good 

 roads never seem to exist naturally together. 



