CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Tlie Indus. — Ladak. — Keceived with all the honours. — Exchange 

 presents. — City of Ladak. — The Eajali. — Fort. — Continue our 

 route. — Female chief. — Cross the Indus. — The Shalmar. — Drass 

 Fort. — Enter Cashmere by the Bultul pass. — The Sona Merg 

 valley. — Hungul stag. — Freedom from caste. — Bear-shooting. 

 — Perseverance rewai'ded, and the bear fished out. — A nation 

 of liai-s. — The Shalimai' gardens. — The lake of Cashmere. — 

 Visit to the Ma,harajah. — The city of Cashmere. — Its present 

 condition. — Ascend the Jelum. — Shooting. — Sacred cave of 

 Umurnath. — Legends. — Dead pilgrim. — Variety of wild sheep. 

 — Poor Dash. — Colls' adventure with a bear. — Critical position. 

 — Severe wounds. — Bhimber pass. — Fears of the coolies.— The 

 Markhoor. — Return to Alibad Serai. — Pooshena. — Indifferent 

 sport. — Re-enter the valley. — Supplies and fruit. — Fish. — Great 

 number of beai's. — Cashmerian coolies. — Leave the valley. — 

 Catching a deserter. — Kishtewar. — Budrawer. — Dispute on the 

 road. — Justice done. — Chumba. — The little Rajah. — Arrive at 

 JuUunder. — Farewell to the hills. — March to Peshawur. — 

 Return to England 339 



