CHAPTER XV. 



The Indus. — Ladak. — Received with all the honours. — Exchange presents. — 

 City of Ladak. — The Rajah. — Fort. — Continue our route.^Female chief. 

 — Cross the Indus. — The Shalmar. — Drass Fort. — Enter Cashmere by the 

 Bultul pass. — The Sona Merg valley. — Huugul stag. — Freedom from 

 caste. — Bear shooting. — Pei-severance rewarded, and the bear fished out. 

 -^A nation of liars. — The Shalimar gardens. — The lake of Ca.shmere. — 

 Visit to the Maharajah. — The city of Cashmere. — Its present condition. — 

 Ascend the Jelura. — Shooting. — Sacred cave of Umurnath. — Legends. — 

 Dead pilgrim. — Variety of wild sheep. — Poor Dash. — Colls' adventure 

 with a bear. — Critical position. — Severe wounds. — Bhimber pass. — Fear.^ 

 of the Coolies. — The Markhoor. — Return to Alibad Serai. — Pooshena. 

 — Indifferent sport. — Re-enter the valley. — Supplies and fi'uit. — Fish. — 

 Great number of bears. — Cashmerian coolies. — Leave the valley. — Catching 

 a deserter. — Kishtewar. — Budrawer. — Dispute on the road. — Justice done. 

 — Chumba. — The little Rajah. — Arrive at JuUunder. — Farewell to the 

 hills. — March to Peshawur. — Return to England. 



From Gyah we went down to the Indus, 

 and keeping upon the left bank of the river, 

 passed through Narsila and Slakna, arriving 

 at Ladak, on the 21st of July. 



The first portion of the route, that from 

 Gyah to the Indus, lay through a very wild 

 and beautiful valley ; but from the point at 



z 2 



