372 SHORT STALKS 



visible. Without au hour's delay, we seized the occasion, 

 drove off down the valley, and a few hours later found 

 ourselves at the little Pavilion de Belle Vue, on the Col de 

 Voza, which ridge divides the northern from the western 

 face of the great massif of Mont Blanc. That mountain 

 has been almost vulgarised by two generations of the show- 

 man's business, but I have often thought that, of all the 

 ranges which I know, it is the most impressive. The pure 

 and stately dome of the monarch contrasts so gloriously 

 with the graceful spires of the attendant aiguilles, which 

 rank themselves around their lord. Of these, the Aiguille 

 de Bionnassay, which is the most conspicuous and seductive 

 of the group, of those that are visible from the approach to 

 Chamouni from the west, was, at the time of which I write, 

 nearly if not quite, the highest Alpine peak which remained 

 unsealed. Our intention was to endeavour to ascend the 

 peak by its north-western face, and if successful, follow the 

 lonjy curved arete which connects it with the Dome du 

 Gouter. We expected difficulties which would only yield 

 to a determined attack ; but we had tested one another's 

 powers, and I had the utmost confidence in my companions, 

 than whom it would have been difficult to find any more 

 averse to turning their l^acks on an incomplete undertaking. 

 Our guides, Cachat and Payot, though not in the first rank, 

 were, like most Chamouni men, excellent icemen. 



With an hour or two of daylight to spare, we proceeded 

 to examine the face of the peak which we hoped to suljdue, 

 and which now came in sight. A well-regulated mountain 

 ought to consist of rocks and snow in reasonable propor- 

 tions, so that if the conditions of the one are unfiivourable, 

 resort may be had to the other medium. In this case. 



