120 THE DAIRY OF THE FARM. 



moulds, and left to drain ; but the curd must be particularly 

 soft or the amalgamation will not be perfect. Sometimes, 

 however, it is placed in fine cloths and hung over square 

 moulds, or from the ceiling of the dairy. Little cheeses of 

 this nature can be made in so many ways that it is not sur- 

 prising the French take so much trouble to understand and 

 manufacture them, and that we should be able to see such 

 numbers of different varieties in their country markets. 



Camembert. Perhaps this is the most popular of any 

 French cheese among English consumers. It was invented 

 nearly a century ago by Marie Fontaine, ancestress of M. 

 Cyrille Paynel, the most famous maker of the present day, 

 whose farm at Mesnil Mauger we visited, to learn the pro- 

 cess of manufacture, a few years ago. It takes its name 

 from the commune of Camembert, in which Mdlle. Fon- 

 taine resided. The cheese is made from whole milk, and 

 cream is not added as is popularly supposed. There are 

 imitations made of partially skimmed milk, but they do not 

 possess the quality of the real article. A portion of the 

 morning's milk is added to the milk of the previous even- 

 ing, this being heated in a tub to the temperature of 95 F. 

 when the rennet is added, this depending chiefly upon its 

 strength and the time of the year. 



As an even quality of rennet is very important, some 

 makers prefer to manufacture their own. M. Paynel uses 

 one dessertspoonful to twenty litres of milk, and about 

 fifty per cent, more in winter. When mixed, the milk is 

 stirred for two or three minutes to assist its coagulation. 

 It is then covered and left for between five and six hours 

 according to the season, and when the finger can be laid 

 upon the surface without curd adhering, it is ready for 



