FOREIGN DAIRYING. 127 



St. Marcellin. This cheese is made from goat's milk, 

 unskimmed, and derives its name from the district in 

 which it is made. The cheeses weigh from ahout 4 to 4J 

 ounces, and, if eaten fresh, must be consumed within twenty- 

 four hours. In hot weather they are considered particularly 

 agreeahle, though called cheeses of the third quality. The 

 rennet is manufactured according to the custom of each 

 particular farmer, hut is generally made from calves' veils 

 and white dry wine. No definite rule can be given as to 

 the quantity to be used, as this varies with different 

 makers, and according to its strength, but a little practice 

 will determine this point. If too much is used the cheese 

 becomes slightly sour. In winter the milk is heated a 

 little before working commences, but not in summer. 

 When the milk is curdled, it is placed into small goblets 

 or mugs, holding about 2 pints, which are perforated all 

 over the surface. In these the curd is placed, and after it 

 is sufficiently drained, and unable to lose its form, it is 

 quickly salted, taken from the moulds, and placed in an 

 apartment upon a shelf, on which is a layer of rye straw. 

 This apartment must be well aerated, and in a sheltered 

 position, and the cheeses turned and salted daily during 

 the hot weather : once every 2 days being sufficient in the 

 cold season. When they commence to dry, the crust 

 assumes a yellowish colour, and then a blue : and in this 

 state may be marketed as cheeses of the second quality. 

 In order to make a more perfect article the cheeses are 

 placed in a closed compartment in a cellar, being always 

 placed upon straw. Here they take a blue, and then a 

 yellow mould, and are considered to be of the best or first 

 quality. The chief feature in the manufacture of the 

 St. Marcellin cheeses is, that the most rigid cleanliness in 



