46 FORESTRY WORK 



in a slanting direction, and large cuttings with a sharp 

 bill-hook, so as to cause as little damage as possible to 

 the bark. 



For this reason, too, the cuttings should never be forced 

 into the ground, but a hole made with a dibbler for the 

 smaller slips or a crowbar for the larger ones. It may 

 often be necessary to dig holes 2 feet 6 inches deep for the 

 larger cuttings. 



The best way to treat small cuttings in the nursery is 

 to line them out in a trench in the same way as trans- 

 plants, and, unless present in considerable quantities, 

 sand should be added to the layer of soil next the cuttings, 

 as they start root growth much quicker in sharp soil. All 

 cuttings must be made firm in the soil. 



Spring is the best time to take cuttings of most trees, 

 just before the sap rises, and they should be set as soon 

 as possible after they have been cut. Cuttings of many 

 shrubs, Privet, Laurel, etc., are taken from the young 

 shoots in early autumn. 



English Elm, whose seed does not ripen in this country, 

 and Lime amongst forest trees, besides many shrubs, are 

 usually propagated from root suckers. These are cut 

 away from the parent trees and placed in nursery lines 

 for a year or two. 



Layering in connection with sylviculture is usually 

 confined to coppice woods and hedges, but many shrubs 

 that do not seed well in this country are propagated in 

 this way. 



In layering, a low branch is bent over into a little trench 

 about 3 inches deep, pegged down securely, and the soil 



