Autumn Fruiting 51 



important point to remember is to merely pinch off the 

 tip while the plants are young and only a few inches high. 

 Six to eighteen inches is better than higher, provided it 

 is done when the plant reaches that point, but they should 

 never be allowed to grow higher and then be cut back to 

 this point. If stopped at this early age, the main cane 

 will increase in height somewhat, and will be able to throw 

 out strong and vigorous branches, forming a stocky, self- 

 supporting bush, well prepared to endure the winter and 

 produce a good crop of fruit the following year. Such a 

 bush of the Cuthbert variety is shown in Fig. 9. An 

 undesirable form of training is shown in Fig. 10. 



Staking or trellising is sometimes practiced in garden 

 culture, and even by commercial growers, in some regions. 

 If the hill system, with check rows, is followed, a stake is 

 set in the center and the canes loosely tied to this. In the 

 row method a wire is strung on posts, to which the canes 

 are fastened. A little pamphlet entitled "New Raspberry 

 and Blackberry Culture" by J. F. Littooy, of Everett, 

 Washington, strongly recommends the latter plan for that 

 region. Climate and soil fertility doubtless have much to 

 do with the desirability of supports. In the experience 

 of many growers in the eastern states, supports are not 

 necessary. Where canes grow very tall and vigorous a 

 heavier yield can doubtless be obtained by tying them up 

 and leaving more wood at the spring pruning. 



AUTUMN FRUITING 



Some varieties of raspberries have a tendency to bear 

 fruit in autumn on wood of the current season's growth. 



