72 Bush-Fruits 



to form one long, tall, unbranched cane. This is merely 

 shortened back in spring as conditions seem to warrant. 

 When this method is followed the canes are often tied to 

 stakes or trellises. The plan reduces the work of pruning, 

 but that is more than offset by the trouble of staking or 

 trellising if that is done. One point worth considering 

 in connection with this method is the fact that diseases 

 are less likely to be troublesome, especially anthracnose. 

 In small, confined areas, especially on low, moist ground, 

 this may be a matter of considerable importance. Per- 

 haps it is largely for this reason that plantations are 

 thought by some to last longer if handled in this way. 

 The jdelds do not appear to average as well as by the 

 former method. 



The last step in pruning is to cut away the fruiting 

 canes after they have borne. The best time to do this is 

 as soon as fruiting is over. At that time they are still 

 alive and green and cut much easier than if left until 

 winter or the following spring. Removing them also 

 gives better opportunity for free circulation of air through 

 the plantation. This tends to check the spread of fungous 

 diseases. Some insects which work in the cane also spend 

 the winter there, and may be destroyed by promptly re- 

 moving and burning them. Removing the canes as soon 

 as fruiting is over gives a good opportunity for thoroughly 

 tilling and cleaning up the plantation before beginning to 

 put down the tips for the growth of new plants. If too 

 many young canes spring up in the hill, part of them 

 should be removed when the old canes are cut away, un- 

 less it has been done before. Not over five should be left; 

 three may be even better. 



