26 A ROUGH AND READY CANTEEN 



leave. The Hova government maintained, until the French 

 conquest, a garrison of from two to three hundred men at 

 Tamatave. These troops had their quarters close to the fort, in 

 a number of houses placed in rows and enclosed in a large square 

 or rdva, formed of strong wooden palisades, with gateways. 



The following day was occupied in making preparations for 

 the journey, purchasing a few of the most necessary articles of 

 crockery, etc., and unpacking my canteen. This latter was a 

 handsome teak box, and fitted up most neatly with plates, 

 dishes, knives and forks, etc. But Mr Plant said that both the 

 box and most of its contents were far too good to be exposed to 

 the rough usage they would undergo on the journey ; so I took 

 out some of the things and repacked the box in its wooden case. 

 Subsequent experience showed the wisdom of this advice, and that 

 it was a mistake to use too expensive articles for such travelling 

 as that in Madagascar, or to have to spend much time in getting 

 out and putting in again everything in its proper corner. Upon 

 reaching the halting-place after a fatiguing journey of several 

 hours, it is a great convenience to get at one's belongings with 

 the least possible amount of exertion ; and when starting before 

 sunrise in the mornings, it is not less pleasant to be able to 

 dispense with an elaborate fitting of things into a canteen. By 

 my friend's advice, I therefore bought a three-legged iron pot 

 for cooking fowls, some common plates, and a tin coffee-pot, 

 which also served as a teapot when divested of its percolator. 

 These things were stowed away in a mat bag, which proved the 

 most convenient form of canteen possible for such a journey 

 The contents were quickly put in, and as readily got out when 

 wanted; and, thus provided, we felt prepared to explore 

 Madagascar from north to south, quite independent of inns and 

 innkeepers, chambermaids and waiters, had such members of 

 society existed in this primitive country. 



1 It is perhaps hardly necessary to say that for some years 

 past Tamatave has been a very different place from what is 

 described above. Many handsome buildings offices, banks, 

 shops, hotels and government offices have been erected ; the 

 town is lighted at night by electricity ; piers have been con- 

 structed; and in the suburbs shady walks and roads are 

 bordered by comfortable villa residences and their luxuriant 

 gardens. 



