A NATIVE HOME 33 



dark, we decided to stay of Hivondrona for the night. A house 

 at most of the villages on the road to the capital was provided 

 for travellers, who took possession at once, without paying any- 

 thing for its use. The house here, which was somewhat better 

 than at most of the other places, consisted, like all the dwellings 

 in this part of the country, of a framework of poles, thatched 

 with the leaves of the traveller's tree, and the walls filled in 

 with a kind of lathing made of the stalks of the same leaves. 

 The walls and floor were both covered with matting, made from 

 the fibre of leaves of the rofia palm. In one corner was the fire- 

 place, merely a yard and a half square of sand and earth, with 

 half-a-dozen large stones for supporting the cooking utensils. 

 As in most native houses, the smoke made its way out through 

 the thatch. 



Our men soon came up with the baggage and proceeded to get 

 out kitchen apparatus, make a fire, and put on pots and pans ; 

 and in a short time beef, fowls and soup were being prepared. 

 Meanwhile Mr Plant and I walked down to the seashore and then 

 into the village, to call upon a Creole trader, who was the only 

 European resident in the place. We brought him back with 

 us, and found dinner all ready on our return to the house. My 

 largest case of drawing boards formed, when turned upside down 

 and laid on other boxes, an excellent table ; we sat round on 

 other packages, and found that one of our bearers, who officiated 

 as cook, was capable of preparing a very fair meal ; and although 

 the surroundings were decidedly primitive, we enjoyed it all 

 the more from its novelty. After our visitor had left us we 

 prepared to sleep ; three or four boxes, with a rug and my 

 clothes-bag, formed a comfortable bed for myself, while Mr Plant 

 lay on the floor, but found certain minute occupants of the house 

 so very active that his sleep was considerably disturbed. 



Next morning we were up long before daybreak, and after a 

 cup of coffee started a little before six o'clock. We walked down 

 to the river, which had to be crossed and descended for some 

 distance, and embarked with our baggage in seven canoes. 

 These canoes, like those at Tamatave, are somewhat rude con- 

 trivances, and are hollowed out of a single tree. They are of 

 various lengths, from ten to thirty or forty feet, the largest 

 being about four feet in breadth and depth. There is no keel, 

 so that they are rather apt to capsize unless carefully handled 

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