OUR CANOES 293 



dred houses ; it had, however, been quite recently burnt down, 

 but was in process of rebuilding. The houses seemed rather 

 larger than those in Imerina, made of round pole framework, 

 filled in with bdrardta stems, the roofs of ro/za-palm leaf -stalks 

 and thatched with grass. We secured a new house, not quite 

 finished ; and as this was very like a large birdcage, besides 

 having no doors in the three doorways, we put up the tent on 

 one side, piled up our heavy luggage against another of the 

 doorways, and hung a rug over the third, so as to make 

 ourselves less of a public spectacle. 



We were glad of the Sunday's rest after our week of continuous 

 travelling, and that we had not " to shift our moving tent " 

 that morning, but could let beds and baggage, boxes and bottles, 

 and pots and pans rest in peace. We had large and attentive 

 congregations in the native church morning and afternoon, 

 Mr Briggs and I taking the services. Our dwelling, although 

 perfect as regards ventilation, was certainly not cool, and we all 

 were suffering somewhat from the mosquito bites on the 

 journey. We were as much stared at by the " natives " as 

 if we had been a kind of wild animal, a wondering, if not admir- 

 ing, crowd unpleasantly blocking up the one doorway left open 

 in fact, we formed an apparently popular exhibition, open, 

 Sundays not excepted, for a limited period only. 



We were astir very early on the Monday morning, for there 

 was a large amount of work to be got through before we could 

 start on our canoe voyage. We got away from the town before 

 seven, and half-an-hour's ride brought us down to the river, 

 where we found six large canoes, four of which were being 

 loaded with our luggage. When everything had been arranged, 

 we had to pay all our men, only about ten going through with 

 us to Mojanga ; and a few others had to be engaged in addition 

 to row the canoes and help in various ways. About nine 

 o'clock we got away and began our four days' voyage down 

 the Ik6pa. It was a pleasant change from the jolting of the 

 palanquin to the smooth gliding of the canoe. These vessels 

 were about forty feet long ; and the one in which we went was 

 three feet six inches beam, and two feet six inches deep, and 

 had three paddlers, besides one at the stern to steer ; as we 

 were going down with the current, more men were not neces- 

 sary. Two of the palanquins with their hoods were placed 



