130 THE POIN'T BAKKOW ESKIMO. 



the teeth along a line ]iaiall<l to the folded edge aud at a distauee 

 from it equal to tlit- dciirli of the intended fold. This bitten line runs 

 from the edge of tiu- leather as far as it is intended to turn up the side 

 of the sole. A series of similar folds is carried round the toe to a point 

 on the other side of the sole opposite the starting point. In the same 

 way a series of crimps is carried round the heel, leaving an uncrimped 

 space of 2 or 3 inches on each side of the toot. The sole is tluMi sewed 

 to a band or to the edge of the upper, with the thread run through each - 

 fold of the crimps. This gathers tlic ^olc in at the heel and toe aud 

 brings the nucrimped part straight u]mmi .ach side of the shank. When 

 tlu' folds are all of the same length and but sHghtly gathered the sole is 

 turned up ncarlv straight, as at tlie heel usually, aud at the toe also of 

 waterproof l)oots. \Vhen tiie folds are long and much gathered the sole 

 slopes well in ovtSr the foot. Someboots.esiiecially those intendedfor full 

 dress,havethesoledeeper on the sides than at tlie toe, so tliat the top of 

 the sole comes to a point at the toe. The ordinary pattern is alxmt the 

 same height all round and follows the shape of the foot, being rather more 

 gathered in over the toe than at the heel. The "blank " for the sole is cut 

 out by measuring the size of the foot on the leather aiul allowing by eye 

 the margin which is to be turned up. The crimping is al.so done by 

 eye. Any irregularity in the length of the crimps can be remedied by 

 pressing out the crease. I have never seen at Point Barrow the ivory 

 knives, such as are used at Norton Sound for arranging the crimps. 



Different kinds of leather are used for the soles, aud each kind is 

 supposed to be best suited for a i)artiiular purpose. The beautiftil 

 white urine-tanned sealskin is used for winter wear when the snow is 

 dry. but is not suited for standing tlie roughness and daiiipness of the 

 salt-water ice. For this purpose sealskin dressed w ith tlie liair on and 

 worn flesh side out is said to be the very best, prefeialdc e\en to the 

 various waterproof skins used for sunimer boot soles. Fm- waterproof 

 soles are used oil-dressed skins' of the walrus, bearded seal, polar bear, 

 or, 1 >est of all, the white whale. This last nuikes a beautiful light yellow 

 translucent leather about 0-1 inch thick, which is quite durable and 

 keei)s out water for a long time. It is highly prized and qidte an article 

 of trade among the natives, a pair of soles usually commanding a good 

 price. These p:skinio appear to be the only ones who have discovered 

 the excellence of this material for waterproof soles, as there is n(j men- 

 tion to be found of its use elsewhere. The "narwhal skin" spoken of 

 by Dr. Simpson' is probably this material, as he calls it " Kel-lel'-lu-a," 

 which is the ordinary word for white whale at Point Barrow. The nar- 

 whal is very rare in these waters, while the white whale is comparatively 

 abundant. Dr. Simpson appears not to have seen the animal from which 

 the skin was obtained. It is, however, by no means impossil >le that some 

 skins of the narwhal, which when dressed would be indislinguishabh' 



'Probably prepared like the b.Kit .-.ivi-rs described by Crantz. toLI. p. 167. by diyiut tl],i,i witbout 

 removing all of their own blubber. 

 'Op.cit., pp. 242-266. 



