192 A SPORTING TRIP THROUGH ABYSSINIA chap. 



on a gently rising hill, the sides of which were one great 

 field of ripe barley. From the number of valleys we 

 could see running- away to our right (north-east) it was 

 evident that we were skirting the heads of small 

 tributaries of the Blue Nile. Rising in the centre of a 

 broad valley called Mutey Chalunco, some six or eight 

 miles from the road, I noticed what looked like a great 

 square fort ; the natives, however, said it was a mass of 

 rock called Karoder. I heard afterwards that it is nearly 

 forty paces square, with high, precipitous sides, flat- 

 topped, but without water. The Gallas climb up by 

 means of sticks thrust into clefts in the rock, this being 

 rather a favourite refuge of theirs when they are 

 especially wanted, as no one can follow them. We 

 halted close to the village of Wohardow, at a place 

 called Jarso, where a big weekly market is held, much 

 produce and merchandise changing hands between 

 merchants from Gojam and the people of Salali and 

 Metta. The headman was away, but his subordinate 

 arrived, and read the letter from Ras Dargee and also 

 the general passport from the Negus, over which he 

 bowed low. The head priest from the church at 

 Wohardow, built sixteen years ago, came over with a 

 present of a fowl, some bread, fodder and fuel, and 

 begged me to put right an American clock which 

 Menelik had presented to the church some time 

 ago, but it was worn out and beyond repair. Later 

 on the headman, who had returned, brought a 

 sheep, two jars of tej, and two of fresh milk, besides 

 piles of the thin cakes of bread, and bundles of 

 fodder and fuel. He was full of apologies for not 



