SPOHT AM) SCIFA'CE ON TIIK 



aftiT oiK'f iiiorc ri'iichiii^ ^\•ll-;m Fii, wc set out 

 in a north-westerly direction along the Yen-shui 

 valley. 



We were somewhat reassured as to the prospects 

 of securing food for ourselves and our animals 

 in the Ordos, the natives of Yen-an Fu having 

 informed us that there were plenty of Mongols, 

 \sh() were well off and hospitable, scattered in 

 little encampments at easy stages in every direc- 

 tion. 



The journey up the Yen-shui proved uneventful 

 except that as we neared the end of the valley on 

 the third day, we had to cross the river no less 

 than sixty-eight times. Towards the end of the 

 afternoon, however, it began to dwindle down 

 till it was no longer of formidable dimensions and 

 crossings were easily effected. 



As the day wore on we noticed that the loess hills 

 were growing higher and higher, while the sub- 

 stratum of rock changed from grey to red sand- 

 stone. Through this the stream cut deeply, 

 forming sheer and lofty cliffs on either side. 



In one place we noticed, high up on the face 

 of the cliff, some cave dwellings, which were 

 reached by a series of stakes driven into the face 

 of the rock. Many of these were missing, from 

 which we concluded that the caves had long 

 remained untenanted. 



The natives of our last stopping place told us 

 that here we would find a good-sized village with 



14 



