SOUTHERN AFRICA. 71 



any sensible advantng'e ; and my companion, after succes- 

 sively inducting" himself into every article of wearing- apparel 

 upon which he could put his hand, still declared himself 

 as cold as ice. 



At daybreak the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer 

 stood at forty-four deg-rees, yet to the bodily feeling-s, the 

 air was still much colder than we had felt it Avhen down to 

 eig-hteen deg-rees. We crossed the deep sedgy stream of 

 the Mimori, and ascending- to a hig'her level, were presently 

 met by his Excellency the Deputy-Governor, a tall athletic 

 savag-e of commanding- appearance, blind of the left eye. 

 His attii'e was of the nature already described, and saving* 

 that he was unarmed, differed in no respect from that of his 

 attendants. A g-eneral g-reeting- and hand-shaking- ensued — ■ 

 the snuff-box circulated briskly, and we all became cnpital 

 friends. 



Smoking- is not a fashionable vice among-st the Matabili, 

 but all classes are passionately addicted to snuffing- — indeed 

 the sharino- the contents of your box with a strano-er, is the 

 g-reatest compliment that can be paid to him. The mode of 

 taking- it is not unworthy of notice. One-half of the powder 

 having' been transferred to the palm of the hand, by means of 

 a small ivory spoon, which is usually hung- round the neck, 

 the recipient leisurely seats himself under a convenient bush 

 • — drawing- every g-rain into his nostrils at once, with nn 

 eagerness which, although followed by a copious flood of 

 tears, proves the extent of the enjoyment afforded. Worse 

 than barbarian would that man be esteemed, who would 

 wantonly interrupt a social party so emjiloyed. 



After travelling' about five miles, over undulating- downs, 

 covered with luxuriant g'rass, we descended into a lovely and 

 fertile valley, in form resembling* a basin, of ten or twelve 

 miles in circumference, bounded on the north and north- 

 east by the Kurrichane rang-e of mountains, and containing* 



