INGONISH, BY LAND AND SEA. 



UNDER the northern shadow of Cape Smoky 

 there is a double bay, cut in two by a rocky pe- 

 ninsula called Middle Head. Into the half of the 

 bay next to Smoky, and chafing restlessly against 

 the foundations of its richly colored cliffs, runs 

 the Ingonish River, which comes from the al- 

 most impenetrable forests and morasses of the in- 

 terior of northern Cape Breton to pour its clear 

 waters into the ocean. No bridge crosses the 

 stream, and the traveler who descends from the 

 heights of Smoky towards the fishermen's ham- 

 let of Ingonish South Bay, which he sees scat- 

 tered upon a sandy spit at his feet, finds himself 

 halting upon the edge of deep, swift water, with 

 cove on his left and bay on his right, and never a 

 sign of a way across. If his voice is strong and 

 clear, he may waken the fishermen's dogs on the 

 other shore, and, what is more to the purpose, 

 bring a red-haired, blue-eyed lad to the flatboat 

 on the sand, and to the big sweep which will 

 presently urge it across to the foot of the red cliffs. 

 The people of Ingonish are in part of Irish 

 parentage and in part of Scotch, but they are 



