THE GRAPE. 527 



year this one cane, or the first year's growth, is cut down to two buds, 

 and these are grown to two long canes, all others, as the first year, being 

 rubbed off. The third year one of these canes of the second year's 

 growth is cut down to two buds, and the other to four buds the former 

 again permitted to make two good long stout canes, and the latter 

 allowed to produce about four or six clusters of fruit, all the ground 

 shoots being rubbed away. When the buds break in spring, as soon as 

 they are about one inch long the bearing canes are to be examined, and 

 all but one shoot at each axil be rubbed out, otherwise there will be a 

 mass of small shoots and clusters without any perfect fruit. It is also 

 in some varieties deemed advisable to rub out entire all the buds of each 

 alternate joint, leaving only one-half the natural quantity to fruit. When 

 this is done the winter pruning of the bearing cane should be somewhat 

 longer than when each bud is allowed to fruit. 



The two buds or canes for the next year's fruiting are allowed to 

 grow as long as they will, and are trained upright ; the other, on which 

 the fruit is grown, is carried off at an angle of about forty-five degrees, 

 and when it has made its shoots, set its fruit, and grown so that there are 

 three or four leaves or joints beyond the fruit they are stopped by 

 pinching, as we have advised' in the training of foreign grapes, the only 

 point of difference being in permitting our native sorts more liberty and 

 foliage. The following season, or fourth year, the cane which has this 

 year borne fruit is cut down to two buds, and the two canes of this year's 

 growth are cut to four or more buds for fruit-bearing, and trained at an 

 angle of forty-five degrees each way, while the two buds on the bearing 

 cane of last year make canes for the succeeding year's bearing. 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. The mildew and rot are diseases which 

 most affect the success of grape culture in this country. Many theories 

 and suggestions as to their origin, cause, etc., have been promulgated 

 and printed, but we feel that as yet no clear and full explanation or 

 cause has been adduced. Sudden changes of temperature, a cold night 

 or two in the month of August, a few days of foggy warm rain, followed 

 by clear sunshine, often producing the disease, with serious results, with- 

 out regard to the most thorough practices of prevention as advised by 

 theorists. 



The beetles which sometimes infest the grape-vines in summer, 

 especially the large brownish yellow vine beetle (Pelidnota punctata), 

 and the grape-vine flea-beetle (Haltica chalybea), are very destructive to 

 the foliage and buds, and the most effectual remedy is hand-picking 

 when taken in time. 



GRAFTING the grape may be performed, and often quite successfully. 

 Operators differ in their opinion as to the best season, some preferring 

 the autumn, some early spring, and some quite late spring. But, what- 

 ever time is taken, it must be remembered that the union of the graft 

 and stock should always be covered with earth, leaving the top or upper 

 bud of the graft level with the ground. 



KEEPING. Grapes may be kept into mid-winter or even spring. 

 They should be gathered in a dry day, laid in tiers of two bunches deep 

 on shelves for a couple of days, then aired, and each bunch carefully 

 wrapped in soft paper and packed in boxes, not over five or six inches 

 deep, and laid away in a cool dry room. Another plan is to pack them 

 in layers with fine soft hay, cut by a cutting machine into about inch- 

 long bits, laying a layer of hay, then grapes, and then hay again. If 



