THE RASPBERKY. 961 



Besides this, we have in the woods the common black raspberry, or 

 thimbleberry (Itubus occidentalis, L.), and the red raspberry (Rubus 

 strigosus, Michx.), with very good fruit. 



The name raspberry (JRaspo, Italian) is probably from the rasp- 

 ing roughness of prickly wood. The term rasfns is still used in Scotland. 



USES. The raspberry is held in general estimation, not only as one 

 of the most refreshing and agreeable subacid fruits for the dessert, but 

 it" is employed by almost every family in making preserves, jams, ices, 

 sauces, tarts, and jellies ; and on a larger scale by confectioners for mak- 

 ing syrups, by distillers for making raspberry brandy, raspberry vinegar, 

 &c. Raspberry wine, made in the same way as that of currant, is con- 

 sidered the most fragrant and delicious of all home-made wines. 



Succeeding the strawberry at the beginning of summer, when there 

 is comparatively little else, this is one of the most invaluable fruits, and, 

 with the strawberry, generally commands the attention of those who 

 have scarcely room for fruit-trees. It is, next to the strawberry, one of 

 the most wholesome berries, arid not being liable to undergo the acetous 

 fermentation in the stomach, it is considered beneficial in cases of gout 

 or rheumatism. 



PROPAGATION. The raspberry is universally propagated by suckers,, 

 or offsets, springing up from the main roots. It may also be grown 

 from pieces of the roots, two to three inches long, and planted in a. 

 light sandy soil early in the spring, covering about one inch deep, and 

 adding a slight coat of light mulch to prevent the earth from drying or 

 baking. The Black Caps, Yellow Caps, and the Purple Cane varieties, 

 are grown from burying the tips of canes in the latter part of August 

 or September, or as soon as the ends of the canes stop growing about one 

 inch deep, when they will form roots and make good plants for trans- 

 planting the following spring. Seeds are only planted when new va- 

 rieties are desired. The seedlings come into bearing at two or three 

 years of age. 



SOIL AND CULTURE. The best soil is a rich deep loam, rather moist 

 than dry, but the raspberry will thrive well in any soil that is rich and deep. 



In making a plantation of raspberries, plant the suckers or canes 

 in rows, from three to four feet apart, according to the vigor of the 

 sort. Two or three suckers are generally planted together, to form a 

 group or stool, and these stools may be three feet apart in the rows, or 

 they may be set one plant in a place, at distances of one foot to eighteen 

 inches along in the row. 



The plantation being made, its treatment consists chiefly in a single 

 pruning every year, given early in the spring. To perform this, ex- 

 amine the stools in April, and leaving the strongest shoots or suckers, 

 say about three or five to each stool, cut away all the old wood and all 

 the other suckers. The remaining shoots should have about a foot of 

 their ends cut off, as this part of the wood is feeble and worthless. 

 It is also a good plan soon after the fruit is gathered to cut out the old 

 canes, which have fruited so as to give the new a better chance to ripen. 

 With a light top-dressing of manure, the ground should then be dug 

 over, and little other care will be requisite during the season, except 

 keeping down the weeds. 



When very neat culture and the largest fruit are desired, more space 

 is left between the rows, and after being pruned the canes are tied to* 



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